Bong Sauce

This chewy, crunchy, slightly spicy condiment appears in many different versions on tables in Laos. I've adpated this particular recipe from a beautiful cookbook, "Food and Travel in Laos" by Suthipong Suriya and Vandara Amphayphone (Baan Phra-Arthit Publications, 2005). If you don't have access to fresh galangal, use ginger root rather than dried galangal. Beef jerky can be substituted for the buffalo skin, though the resulting bong sauce will not have the same texture or flavor.

• 1/2 strip dried buffalo skin, optional
• 12 dried chiles, stems trimmed
• 6 large, whole shallots, unpeeled
• 6 large cloves garlic, unpeeled
• 3 thick slices fresh galangal, crushed
• 1 - 2 teaspoons palm sugar or light brown sugar
• Boiling water
• Salt to taste
• Chopped fresh cilantro

1. Grill the buffalo skin or roast it lightly directly over a gas
   flame. Slice thinly. Soak the slices in salted water for 2 hours.
   Drain and pat dry with paper towel. Set aside.
2. Wrap the chilies in a small square of foil and roast directly over
   hot coals or a gas flame. Let cool. Chop roughly.
3. Char the whole shallots and garlic cloves over a flame until evenly
   blackened. Let cool then peel away the outer skin. Chop roughly.
4. Combine the roasted chiles, shallots and cloves in a large mortar
   or food processor. Add the buffalo skin, galangal and sugar. Pound or
   pulse the mixture to a coarse paste, adding a small amount of boiling
   water if it becomes too thick.
5. Season to taste with salt. Set aside for at least one hour to allow
   flavors to meld.
6. Sprinkle with cilantro just before serving with fresh vegetables,
   dried meat or roasted seaweed sheets.

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