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Houseboat cruise

Large, sturdy kettuvallam once carried heavy loads up and down Kerala's backwaters. The boats' long planks were tied and sealed with coir (the tough fibers from coconut husks) and required two men with long bamboo punts to navigate it through shallow waters. Roads and motored vehicles led to the decline of kettuvallum, but tourism has brought them back, albeit in slightly more comfortable form. Our boat, the smaller one on the left, had two rooms that were plenty big for four friends and a wonderful front deck where we spent nearly all our time. Because Meera speaks Malayalam, the language of coastal Kerala, we were treated to boating lessons, favorite recipes, and three bottles of the infamous toddy--a fizzy brew fermented from freshly tapped coconut blossoms that, to my delight, grows more potent with each passing hour. 

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